Tuesday, January 19, 2016

Slow Cooked Ham and Beans with Merken Ahumado

At the end of our tour of Chile's Lago Llanguihue area we had some spare time to kill before our lunch reservation at Cotele in Puerto Montt (you can read all about that here).  Since it was right down the street from the restaurant, our guide gave us a tour of the port town's local fish market.  While I wasn't all that interested in the barnacle display, the lady with the bags full of spices hanging from the ceiling caught my attention.  Or I should probably say caught my nose's attention.  You could smell the smoke and heat a good ten feet away.




 



 



I wasn't exactly sure what I was buying but I knew it was a dried chile of some type or a mixture of dried chiles and I could tell by looking (and smelling) that there was a natural kind and a smoked kind.  They were priced at 1,000 Chilean Pesos/bag and after asking hubs to do that math for me.....because math is HARD....I shelled out roughly $3 and walked myself away with my favorite purchase of the entire trip.  I made the mistake of throwing them into the bottom of my purse where they sat for the next two weeks.  My purse still smells like smoked chiles!

When I got home I did a little chile research and googled what was written on the bag.  According to Wikipedia.....

Merkén or merquén (from the Mapuche mezkeñ) is a smoked chili pepper (or, in Spanish, "ají") used as a condiment that is often combined with other ingredients when in ground form. Merkén is a traditional condiment in Mapuche cuisine in Chile. 

 The base ingredient of Merkén is the smoked pepper "cacho de cabra" (Capsicum Annuum var. Lungum) a dried, smoked, red pepper, that is sometimes ground with toasted coriander seed and salt. The traditional process of preparation is slow, since it involves harvesting green peppers and then letting them mature to develop an intense reddish color. The peppers are dried naturally in the sun and are then smoked over a wood fire. They are then stored by being hung to dry prior to grinding. Once reduced to powder or flakes, the peppers are often mixed with salt and roasted ground coriander seed.  Commercially, merkén pepper with only an addition of salt is known as "natural merken" ("merkén natural"), while "special merkén" ("merkén especial") contains coriander seeds. The composition of "special merkén" is approximately 70% chili, 20% salt, and 10% coriander seed. 

Merkén originates primarily from the cuisine of the Mapuches of the Araucanía Region of Chile, but is also used in the Chilean cuisine as a replacement for fresh chili. Since the beginning of the 21st century, Merkén has drawn the attention of professional chefs and has begun to find an international market.


 Merkén is most commonly used as the following: 
A general condiment for seasoning dishes such as lentils, gold potatoes, and sautéed vegetables. 
A dry-rub for tuna, lamb, pork, or duck. 
A sprinkle, spice rub, or boiling spice for seafood including crab. 
An addition to stews, savory pies, and purees. 
A spice for ceviches. An addition to cow or goat cheese. 
An addition to peanuts or salty olives.

So, since Merken is a smoked chile, and "ahumado" means "smoked" is the Merken Ahumado double smoked?  We may never know!    "Entero" translates to "whole" so I'm guessing what I purchased is not in combination with any other spices.  So there you go!  And the good news is you don't need to go all the way to Puerto Montt to score yourself some merken....of course Amazon sells it!!  The bad news is you're not quite getting the bargain that I did.





 I'd kind of forgotten about them until I decided to make Mr. B some ham and beans.  I thought, "If anything in the world could use a punch of flavor, it would be beans!"  So I combined about a teaspoon of the merken ahumado with some ground coriander and ground cumin and added to my beans.  Wow.  The added spice along with the smokiness of the ham hocks made for a killer combination.  Like they'd been stewing over a wilderness campfire rather than my not-so-wilderness kitchen.


If you can't get your hands on merken, I think your favorite dried, smoked chile would be a great substitute....ancho, de arbol, guajillo.....


Hubs likes his ham and beans served over cornbread so that's what I did.  He doesn't often get what he wants, so I throw him a bone now and then.  This is my favorite cornbread recipe, but you do you.


Here's the recipe:

Slow Cooked Ham and Beans with Merken Ahumado
Me!

Ingredients:
2 smoked ham hocks (approx. 2 lbs)
1 large onion, diced
2 carrots, peeled and diced
2 celery sticks, diced
2 cloves of garlic, minced
2 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp. smoked, dried chiles (If you're using a whole, dried chile coarsely grind it either in a mortar and pestle or a spice grinder)
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground corriander
1 lb. dried cannelini or great norther beans
1 quart chicken stock plus water to cover

Directions:
In a large dutch oven,  heat the olive oil over medium-high heat.  Add the ham hocks and saute for about 5 minutes.....just to get some of that smoky flavor into the oil.  Remove the hocks and set aside, reduce heat to medium and add in the onions, carrots and celery.  Saute until softened, about 10 minutes.  Add in the garlic and saute for about 1 minute then add in the spices.  Stir to combine with the vegetables and then add the beans and stir to combine everything for a minute or two.  Add the ham hocks back into the pot and pour in the quart of chicken stock and enough water to cover the beans and hocks.  Cover, bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for about 8 hours.

Remove the ham hocks.  Discard the fat and bones and shred the ham.  Add the shredded ham back into the pot.

I wait until now to add the salt and pepper because I never know how much salt the ham hock is going to add.  Adjust to your taste.

Serve over cornbread or whatever floats your boat.





Sunday, January 17, 2016

Weekend stuff.......


I have the hardest time choosing wall art.....ugh....and for some reason, with this new house, I have this strange desire to only hang things to which I feel some connection.  Sooooo, I've been editing some of my favorite vacation photos and turning them into frameable images using this website.  I've been thrilled with the quality of the prints.  Now, to get them framed!!

We have six remaining days to use before March 1 for this year's Exclusive Resort contract and since ER has recently gotten more creative and partnered with some fabulous hotels, hubs and I are heading to New Orleans to celebrate his birthday and our anniversary.  Can you believe I've NEVER BEEN to NOLA?! We've already planned, along with the requisite city tour, a private food and beverage tour and a private mixology lesson!  {hiccup}  I'm also trying to pull bits and pieces from this NY Times guide, this Anthony Bourdain guide (because....ANTHONY!) and this Joy the Baker guide (because I love her and who better to get advice from than a resident?)  I'm open to y'all's thoughts, too.

We have a few more things planned for the middle of the year, but I'm also really excited about a trip to Newfoundland in October when we'll be staying here!  Talk about "getting away".

I'm not much of a boxing fan.....something about watching one get his face bludgeoned???.....but this story and the lack of proper regulating is just downright sad.  And why do I think this may be more to the norm?

The Australian Open starts this week (today?) and while it's probably the grand slam I watch the least because of the time differences, there may be hope on the horizon for the American men's game.  It's about damn time.  Could they be this generation's Andre, Pete, Jim and Michael?  Fingers crossed.

The Wisdom of the Aged.  A NY Times writer and photographer followed six New Yorker's all over the age of 85 for a year asking the question, "What is reasonable to ask of old age?"  Loved this.

I know y'all have seen this already because it broke the internet this week, but I can't stop watching it.  Isn't Adele the most charming?  


Every year I resolve to read more books and less internet and THIS year, I'm DOING IT.  I'm currently reading this (oh, the writing) and this is next in line.  If you're having trouble finding something, check out this list of 53 Books You Won't Be Able to Put Down.  I can vouch for a few!

If you're like me and cannot figure out Snapchat to save your life (damn if it doesn't make me feel old!) here's your help.  You're welcome??

Spend your Sunday losing yourself in Garden & Gun's Back Porch Sessions.....Sturgill Simpson and Johnnyswim, please (just to name a few).

Foodstuffs.......a genius hack for faster polenta (why hasn't someone mentioned this before....seems so simple).  This salad looks delicious.  I'm SO trying this because ALL of my cookie sheets are disgusting!  Pete Wells skewers Thomas Keller.  Ouch.  Seven women transforming the food industry.  Girl Power.

Enjoy your Sunday, everyone.




Wednesday, January 13, 2016

Bobby Flay's Heartland Chopped Salad


I'm renaming this salad.  I initially saw this on the Thanksgiving special that Ina and Bobby did together this year.  Loved it.  I love all things Ina and Bobby!  It seemed like a perfect addition to all of the heaviness that was to be our traditional Thanksgiving dinner....turkey, mashed potatoes, my Grandmother's homemade noodles, sausage dressing....you get the idea.  So I made it.  And then I made it again for Christmas dinner and twice since then!  Yeah.  It's fucking delicious.  

So, I'm renaming it "the salad that made me want to blog about food again".    Which recently has not been the case.  But this was so good, I need to to tell y'all about it.


It started with the dressing.  I LOVE what pomegranate molasses brings to a salad dressing.  That all-up-in-your-business tartness when balanced with a little sweet honey and pungent mustard is perfection.  It's my go-to dressing and it's especially delicious here.

This baby hits on all of your culinary senses.....crunchiness of the sturdy lettuces, pears and walnuts, the soft rice that generously soaks up that dressing, bitter kale, sweet plumped up cranberries.  YUM!

And it's so versatile.  Bobby calls for cooking wild rice for and hour and a half, but if you don't have that kind of time, it's fine.  I've made this with quicker cooking varieties of rice and quinoa also works.  Like I said, I served this as a side for the Holidays, but since I've made it as the main dish either on its own for a meatless Monday or it goes great with a nice Tuna steak or even a ribeye!

Just make it!


Here's the recipe:
Heartland Chopped Salad
Bobby Flay


Ingredients 
1/3 cup dried cranberries 
1 bunch dinosaur kale (lacinato kale), ribs removed and leaves coarsely chopped 
4 ounces baby spinach, chopped 
1 ripe Asian pear, cored, halved and chopped 
1 1/2 cups Overcooked Wild Rice, recipe follows 
1/2 cup toasted walnuts, coarsely chopped 
Pomegranate Molasses Dressing, recipe follows 

Overcooked Wild Rice: 
1 1/2 cups wild rice 
Kosher salt 

Pomegranate Molasses Dressing: 
1/4 cup white wine vinegar 
2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses 
1 tablespoon clover honey 
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 
1/4 cup olive oil 

Directions 
Bring 1 cup of water to a boil in a small saucepan, add the dried cranberries and let sit for 15 minutes. Drain off excess water. Combine the kale, spinach, pear, Overcooked Wild Rice, walnuts and rehydrated cranberries in large bowl. Drizzle 1/4 cup of the Pomegranate Molasses Dressing over and gently toss until evenly coated. Transfer to a serving bowl and drizzle with more dressing when ready to serve. 

Overcooked Wild Rice: Combine the rice, 6 cups water and 1 tablespoon salt in a large saucepan, bring to a boil over high heat and cook until the grains open all the way, 1 hour 15 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes. The rice should be very cooked (not even the slightest chewy). Drain well, spread on a baking sheet in an even layer and set aside. Allow to cool to room temperature. Yield: 3 cups 

Pomegranate Molasses Dressing: Whisk together the vinegar, pomegranate molasses, honey, mustard, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper in a small bowl until combined. Slowly whisk in the oil until emulsified. The dressing will keep in the refrigerator, tightly covered, for up to 2 days. Yield: 1/2 cup



Tuesday, January 12, 2016

Chilean Vacay 2015.....The Finale....Ushuaia and Buenos Aires

Sunday, Dec. 20.....6:00 am....We are entering the harbor at Ushuaia.  It is definitely picturesque.  The sun is already up and we have a partially sunny morning before us.  The weather Gods appear to be cooperating.




















When we dock, we are on a long wharf and surrounded by small expedition-style ships.  At least five.  Maybe a third the size of The World and all containing zodiacs and kayaks  They are unloading the past week's passengers and getting ready to load the next week's group.  It ain't exactly going to be lonesome for The World group.  But, they will tough it out and, I'm sure, make sure their pictures don't include the other ships!

In order to avoid a tight airport run, we have booked a private car (outrageously priced) to take us the five-minute ride to the airport.  The group bus was going to be cutting it close.  This turned out to be one of our best decisions of the trip.  The shuttle buss the ship had arranged finally arrived at the airport sometime after noon, along with maybe three other buses full of passengers and the lines were huge.  We saw ship passengers and some vacationing crew running to try to make our flight....the only flight out that day!

We heard from our driver the first news of the central buzz in Argentina.  There have traditionally been 6 currency rates  -  1 official and 5 unofficial.  This has led to the government having difficulties in international monetary matters and the new President of the country decided to do away with all of them and have only 1 official currency.  It went into effect last week and it was inflationary.  Horrible for local citizens....great for us.  The predominant exchange rate for dollars had been around seven pesos to the USD.  Now, all of the sudden, it was 13 pesos to the dollar on Sunday and by Monday had risen to 14 pesos.  So we found food and wine cheap and fabulous.  But we also saw lots and lots of demonstrations over it.....more about those later.

We were picked up at the airport in Buenos Aires and taken to our hotel.  We were starved so walked two blocks to a recommended steak restaurant (we do love our beef!!), Fervor.  Beautiful restaurant, great staff, great wines and of course, the prices were unbelievable  Merchants have not been able to keep up with the inflation and the menus carried the old prices.  So a beautiful ribeye with appetizers, sides and three bottles of wine came to about $75/person!!  Had a great meal, lots of laughs and a nice walk on a beautiful night.


We only had a little over 24 hours in Buenos Aires, so we set up a four hour bus tour for Tuesday afternoon.  We laughed when a 30 passenger bus showed up.  That was the only one they had so the four of us crowded in and made do!  We had driven through slums on the way to the hotel from the airport and weren't too impressed.  We misjudged the city.  They call it the Paris of South America with good reason.  Yes, there are some nasty slums, but it is a beautiful, prosperous city with a very European feel to it.  After a while, it became obvious that the reason is in large part because it is populated almost entire by European immigrants.  We saw no Indians (Incans) or descendants of Indians.  Very different from Chile.  Huge French, Italian and Spanish influences in an almost entirely white population.  Very homogenous.  The country is 94% Catholic and it shows.







The current democracy seems to be indulgent of all sorts of public protest.  There are demonstrations everywhere, every day.  Our  guides couldn't even explain what they were protesting about, but the police presence is high and they just stood by and let them disrupt traffic.  That was a sight we were to repeatedly witness.  In fact, as we toured the government center, including the pink palace where Evita so famously addressed the shirtless ones, the police had cordoned off the main thoroughfare because a huge demonstration was planned to protest the closing of a factory.  






As we went through the main cathedral, where Pope Francis I gave mass before becoming Pope, we started hearing lots of noise and what sounded like gunfire.  As we walked outside, we heard lots of loud bangs but people walking around just ignored it, as did the police!  It turns out it is customary for demonstrators to shoot off fireworks to get attention and that is what we heard.  No problem as far as the police were concerned.  We are shortly face to face with the front of the demonstration.....loud bullhorns, lots of rowdy people and fireworks.  And citizens just went about their business without really paying attention.  Of course, the TV cameras were there!




The architecture is a combination of French colonial and Italian.  The wealthy families would bring in famous European architects to design new building and homes and it really shows.  Lots of very broad streets, the largest as 22 lanes of traffic.  Lots of trees, parks, flowers and green grass,  One of the highlights is the main cemetery which is a mausoleum much like the one in New Orleans.  Hundreds of above ground crypts and mausoleums......all very elaborate, ornate and frankly a bit creepy.  They all have underground chambers as well and entire generations of families are often interred in them.  It would make a great location for a zombie movie!!






















We wrapped up our tour just in time for a late lunch before heading to the airport.  Once again we decided to go with proven excellence and we headed back to Fervor.  This time, we had mixed grilled seafood and veggies.....a bit healthier but tasty and cheap!!

We met our car and headed for the airport just as the skies clouded up and it began to rain.  Once again, as we headed into the airport, we were delayed for about 10 minutes by the same protestors who were not letting cars through.  Again, lots of police, but they did little and it seemed like just a nuisance to everyone.  We learn later from folks on our flight that the protestors blocked the entrance highway completely for over an hour and folks missed flights.  Four or five passengers on our flight came running up to the gate out of breath in the last moments of boarding with that tale!

We are all tire of traveling.  Tired of suitcases.  Most definitely ready to get home and start getting into the Christmas spirit.  Speaking of that, we were struck with how weird it is to see all the Christmas decorations, trees, etc., just as we see at home, but it is the middle of summer!  The Christmas trees are made to look like they have snow on them just as is done in our malls, but again, even in the deepest South of the continent, it is their summer.

Epilogue.....Some final words.  First, we four spent three weeks together.....nearly every waking hour. Shared cars, tours, an apartment, every single meal.  We have been friends now for over seven years and our friendship has been one of world-traveling for the last five or so.  I don't know who first expressed it Saturday evening as we sat watching the pristine wilderness glide by, but it went something like this...."we manage to be together in complete harmony for these extraordinary periods of time.  Never an upset, never a disagreement.  We end up sad to part and looking forward to the next get together.  It is hard to imagine a better, simpler friendship.  Yet, when we are not together we may not talk live for months at a time.  Jill and Joni share Facebook stuff.  But, then, when we next meet, everything picks up.  It is a wonderful and special thing."

Second, I don't know that any of us are believers in "bucket lists".  For my part, I do not have one nor care to have one.  I just want to experience life in the now and whatever the next adventure is, great.  I just don't need to have done something or gone somewhere to have decided my life is fulfilled.  This trip could be on some folks bucket lists.  I know this:  It is a special experience and I am glad I did it  It was too long and a bit more sedate than I prefer, but it was unique and wonderful.  We saw places I never imagined seeing and did it with great friends and the absolute love of my life.  It just doesn't get better than that.  Will we go back to Chile?  Hard to know.  Not on my bucket list!!!

Thanks, Marty for allowing me to hijack your travelog!  And thanks to you both for being the best travel companions (and always bringing sexy back to wherever we happen to be!)  Until the next one......